We recommend

You probably already known our preference for homestays over hotels after having read this. We are budget travellers who don’t mind spending a little extra once in a while for special food&drink, adventure sports or a unique experience. If your outlook towards similar to ours, the is post might interest you.

Places to stay:


Manali is really crowded, right round the year and the traffic is a mess. We suggest you go couple of kms ahead into Vashist instead. Vashist has a variety of options for accommodation.  The cheapest can be found near the main temple/hot spring area. Places like Kalpataru Guesthouse & Om Guesthouse are hot favourites with students and firang budget travelers, so it could be tough to find a room in peak season.


As you travel through the Manali -Leh Highway you will find numerous dhabas that let you rest there, you can even get a warm bed for Rs.100 a night.



Keylong is the last major town on the route. Here you can find ATMs, mechanics,bars,rooms with hot showers etc.

We stayed at one of the hotels spelt Geyspa/Jispa. You have your New Geypsa, Old Geyspa, Geysspa Deluxe and so on. Now I don’t remember which of these it was but it was at Subhash chowk, right in front of the statue. The hotel has decent rooms, hot water and a restaurant.


Leh ha everything from luxurious villas, to cheap hostels. Our first choice was Palace view guesthouse, but  they were fully booked the night we landed in Leh so we chose to stay in a guesthouse that lent out a bed for Rs.100 a night. The only problem though was the lack of hot water.

We recommend you stay Palace View Guesthouse. They have both rooms and dorms, so it won’t be too heavy on your pocket, is a nice clean place and has hot water.


The hot spring guesthouse at Panamik is run by a nice little family and more importantly is barely a few meters from the hot springs. The rooms are spacious and clean, bathrooms are tiled and airy & the food is tasty. Enough said.

Pangong Tso

You’ll find many  luxury tents and camps all round  Pangong, with tariff going up to Rs.5000 per night. The homestays in comparison offer you a roof for anywhere between Rs.100-500 depending on the size of the room.

We stayed at the Padma Guest house & Homestay at Spangmik. They were constructing a large tented structure while we were there. That could be a nice camping option if you are traveling in a large group.


Tso Moriri

Just like Pangong, Tso Moriri has many luxury camping options and quite a few budget homestay/guesthouses as well.

The Mentok guesthouse in Korzok is a good option. They have a western toilet but it is a common toilet, so you have to wait your turn. Tso Moriri receives very little electricity so the lights go off pretty early, but you can always borrow a candle.



We spent the night in a car at Turtuk, so we really can’t recommend any accommodation at Turtuk.




Homestays Vs Hotels

Very few people in India are comfortable with the idea of booking-less travel. As far as transport is concerned, going gung ho might not be the best thing to do, especially if travelling with kids and other dependants. But because of this, there seems to be a wrong preconception about accommodation as well.

On my return from Ladakh, many family and friends asked the routine questions of how was the trip, what did you see and where did you stay. Though many of these questions were just small talk and thus, deserved curt replies at best, I made it a point to elaborate when it came to the subject of hotels. And I always started my discourse with the line – “I never spent more than 100 bucks per night on the entire 25 day trip.”

It seems imprudent to consider advance booking to a location as tourist friendly as Ladakh. Hotels are only a luxury available in the town of Leh and its outskirts. At all other destinations like the lakes and the valleys, home stays are the only option available. Home stays are true to their name and offer everything that a cosy mountain home can. They are not luxurious or adorned with meaningless stars, but are comfortable, culturally grounded and humble. Usually a family is in-charge of running the household which includes cleaning up, cooking and undertaking the herculean task of arranging the necessities like water and fire. Ladakh is an arid land and common people struggle to live on a day-to-day basis, let alone provide luxuries of a typical hotel only to burden the environment and tax the local human resources. There must be no space for unnecessary indulgences in such a remote part of the world.

There is also something intrinsically romantic about these home stays which is best experienced firsthand. There is a kitchen lined with innumerable utensils, both big and small. If there are less people living in the home then you could even request the owners to let you cook. It will be a great way to exchange stories and cultures between the cities and the villages of Ladakh. Not only this, while staying your fill at home stays, there is no regard for stupid check out times or room keys at the reception. It is supremely safe, like one’s own home, and very amicably managed. For once while travelling, look at the people serving you as human beings and I promise that every issue will be sorted out. Hotels are way too expensive for backpackers like us, but even if a wealthy family spends less on their stay, they will not only be less of a burden to the environment but will also be able to spend their saved money on some other stuff like adventure sports or something.

I was always a no booking kind of person, but that was because of laziness. Now, I have reaffirmed my belief for no booking travel but with a much more acceptable reason backing it up.



Happy Birthday! Alfred Hitchcock

The master of suspense, gave us many techniques that are now common in films. The Vertigo shot or track in zoom out, the gaze etc.

This is our amateurish  tribute to the master….a doff of the hat. We shot this, while killing some time at the Chemre Monastery. We tracked a bus from one of the windows in the monastery’s courtyard, watch the bus go up a winding road.